EireLandings ~ Part Seven ~ Across the Bay

If you ever go across the sea to Ireland,

Then maybe, at the closing of your day,

You can sit and watch the moon rise over Claddagh

And see the sun go down on Galway Bay.

lyrics by Dr Arthur Colahan in 1947 - popularized by Bing Crosby

and can be heard on YouTube

The Galway Harbor of Galway Bay

Sunset on Galway Bay was not on our agenda.  We arrived in lovely sunshine for a leisurely lunch and a wander around the town on our own.  The tide was out so the harbor scene was perhaps not at its best, but still it was one of the special places in songs from my childhood.  Favorite Oldest and Favorite Youngest Daughters went off to explore on their own.  The aunts and I peeked in a few shop windows and then found a lovely tea shop for lunch - our usual brown bread, delicious soup, and pots of tea in a bright little room. 

View from the Tea Room

Several tables of friends or family were enjoying the day and lots of Irish Gaelic was overheard.  We had a sweet view of the town from the window by our table which inspired us to finish quickly and get back out there.  Shops and historical sites were plentiful in a town whose University was founded in 1325. 

The Fab Five on Tour

       The influence of the port and trading reached its peak in the 17th century.  Part of its multicultural heritage is seen in the Spanish Arches, remnants of the old town wall under the Claddagh Bridge.  The existing Arches are two of four dating from 1584 and were part of the port's fortifications.   

Burial Plaque of the Lamented Tenifons

     We covered a lot of ground but one of my favorite moments was in the Church of St. Nicholas, Church of Ireland, which also dates from the nearly unfathomable time of 1325.  As is often the case in historical churches, there were numerous plaques and tablets identifying the prominent and wealthy patrons of the past.  I was particularly taken with one plaque indicating the close-by remains of a beloved wife.  I read the words of the obviously grieving husband with considerable empathy and was not at all prepared for the twist of the final thought...

"Near this place lies the body of M. Elizabeth Tenifon, Wife of Major William Tenifon Who departed this life June 23, 1741.  She was a woman of  an Exceeding good Character in all respects of life, and died much lamented by all her Acquaintance.  Likewise his Second Wife Ann Tenifon who was equal in Character and died equally lamented April 1st, 1744."

       Personally, I think it was prudent to ration verbiage about the late lamented Ann when it has all been said just above and this fairly soon after, especially when there was probably a cost per word or letter of carving.  Noticeably there is room left on the plaque - just in case?  It seems, however, the good Major had no need of it.

Claddagh Ring

Site of the Village of Claddagh

      Before we leave Galway, it is important to note that long before there was Galway, there was Claddagh, a small fishing village of about 400 thatched cottages.  The famous Claddagh ring retains its 300 year old design and is one of the most recognized of all Irish symbols.  With its hands, heart, and crown it represents Love, Loyalty, and Friendship and is often used as a betrothal or wedding ring.  While the village is long gone, it is well remembered.  And for a price, you, too, can wear its emblem with Irish pride.  (Just for the record, I got mine over 25 years ago in that same little yellow shop in the photo.)

       Time to board the bus and it was only early afternoon with much more to see and do before dinner. 

Natural Colors of Connemara Marble

       Our next drive was through Connemara, well known for its marble.  We visited a marble workshop and saw some exquisite pieces of this fascinating rock and watched how it was cut and polished.  The startling array of colors did not outshine the unexpected cache of oyster and other fossils imbedded in some of the slabs. 

Oyster Fossils

Fossils sometimes fall out in
the course of cutting the marble

     Off in the bus again, nearly time for tea.  But before we can avail ourselves of the hospitality ahead, Sheep happen!

     The region and terrain of Connemara deserve far more attention than what is being given in this space.  It is the wildest part of Ireland and its mountains, lakes, and peat bogs combine to call the adventurous to meander in its sensual and secretive beauty.

    Yes, dear readers, the most adept of you will notice a formatting error above in the background color of one of the paragraphs.  I have tried in vain to repair it only to have entire portions disappear which then I have painstakingly, and with much colorful vocabulary (that I think the neighbors could hear) re-done.   Now, a drink!  I do hope you enjoy this little sojourn.